Woven fabrics are based on warp and weft yarns.The warp yarns are long yarns that are pulled out of the loom's shed during weaving.The weft moves back and forth between the warp threads, up and down, creating a "grid" of work.

In straight cutting, the yarn in the vertical direction is the warp, which has good stability and is not easy to be stretched and deformed.When cutting in an oblique way, it is equivalent to hanging the fabric in an oblique direction. The fabric is inclined in the vertical direction and loses support.Under the action of gravity, the Angle between the warp and weft yarns at the weave point of the woven fabric becomes smaller, and the small "square" becomes a small "parallelogram", thus changing the performance of the fabric.

In order to better understand the influence of bias cutting technology on fabric performance, the research group of bias cutting technology tested 46 pieces of woven fabrics.Fabric selection as far as possible to cover the general needs of the fabric type.The selected fabric materials are composed of natural fiber and chemical fiber, and the tissue structure is plain, twill, satin and other changes and complex tissue. The fabric thickness is 0.118-0.920mm, the weight is 27-400g/m2, and the longitudinal density is 51-900 pieces /10cm.

Generally, the bias is mostly in the oblique cutting, because 450 ° to the most typical and the most direct significance, especially in taking the function clothing.At the same time considering the fabrics oblique cutting performance regularity study, increase in 0 °, 45 ° 30 ° direction, increased to 45 °, 90 ° to 60 ° direction, in order to make the overall classification distribution is symmetrical, facilitate the analysis of the results.Therefore, each of these fabrics as the warp direction to 0 ° (straight), 30 °, 45 ° (positive bias), 60 °, 90 ° (horizontal) to prepare sample.The purpose of the experiment is to analyze whether there is any change in the properties of inclined cut fabrics from different angles and to find the rule of change.

stretchability

Fabric tensile experimental results show that: usually, if not contain elastic elements in the fabric, the fabric of the straight wire strand direction almost no tensile properties, the direction of the horizontal wire strands stretchability is very small, oblique wire strand direction has the certain stretchability, especially is 45 ° inclined direction the stretchability of the best.Inclined cut garment although the bust is loosened, the amount is lesser, wear take off still very convenient, can satisfy the mobile need of human body, very shu

Wrinkle resistance

Garment fabrics is in use process, because external force action, be like, rub, wait and produce plastic bending deformation, form irregular furrow thereby, call crease.The ability to make clothing fabrics wrinkle free is called wrinkle resistance.Sometimes, crease resistance can also be understood as the ability to gradually restore the fabric to its original state due to the rapid and slow deformation of the fabric after the external force is removed.So, the crease resistance of clothing fabric can also be called wrinkle recovery.

Wrinkle recovery Angle is often used as the basis of fabric anti-wrinkle performance.The wrinkle recovery Angle was determined by horizontal method.The experimental results show that 0 °, 30 °, 60 ° law is not very obvious, but most of the fabrics in 45 ° inclined upward good wrinkle resistance, 90 ° direction, namely horizontal material, the most easy to wrinkle, wrinkle resistance is not good.

When wearing clothes, it is easy to appear transverse crease, rarely inclined crease, because inclined cut clothing silk grain direction is inclined, in the wearing process of horizontal crease easily disappear, so inclined cut clothing than straight cut clothing in the vertical and horizontal crease resistance is better.

Just flexible

The stiffness and flexibility of clothing fabric refer to the flexural rigidity and softness of the fabric.The ability of a fabric to resist the change of its shape in the bending direction is called bending stiffness, which is often used to evaluate its opposite characteristic -- softness.The flexural rigidity of apparel fabrics depends on the flexural rigidity of the constituent fibers and yarns as well as the microstructure of the fabric.There are many methods to test the rigidity and softness of clothing fabrics.The principle of the experiment is to take a long and narrow fabric sample of a certain size as a cantilever beam and calculate its bending length according to its flexibility.Bending stiffness is used as an indicator of the stiffness and flexibility of the fabric.Experimental results on woven fabric in 30 °, 45 °, 60 ° direction has good softness, it is because of this characteristic, the bias clothing is the modelling of soft, smooth effect.

drape

The drooping performance of clothing fabric due to its weight is called the drape of fabric.Whether uniform curvature can be formed in fabric droop is an important index of fabric drape degree and drape form.The drape of clothing fabric directly affects the appearance of clothing.The garment must have good static and dynamic draping if it is to achieve an elegant and smooth effect.Fabric with good draping can form uniform and satisfactory natural pleats when drooping, while many fabrics themselves cannot achieve such an effect. When making clothes with natural pleating and even wave, the slant draping performance of fabrics can be improved to expand the selection range of fabrics.

The tear resistance

In the process of wearing the garment, the yarn in the fabric will be caught by a foreign body and break, or the fabric will be partially clamped and torn in half.This form of fabric damage is called tearing or tearing.In the tearing phenomenon, only one or several yarns are broken at the beginning, and then the yarns in the fabric are broken successively in stages until the fabric is completely torn.Tear resistance is usually measured by a single seam tear test method. The equipment and instrument used is a fabric drop hammer tear tester.Choose lOOmm x 63 mm fabric sample, 0 °, 30 °, 45 °, 60 °, 90 ° direction of each piece.The regularity of this experiment is poor, thicker fabric is often difficult to completely tear.Relatively thin and soft fabric (e.g., spun rayon), 5 ° direction, the maximum present tear strength, and diminishing to 0 ° and 90 ° direction, in tearing crack, either in the warp direction, either by the weft direction, present a consistency.Clothing is generally because of crochet, the human body movement will appear after the tear phenomenon, mostly transverse or vertical tear.If the garment of inclined cut is hooked by sharp content, although the person is doing forward or the movement that turn round, because inclined silk grain is stretchy, also tear not easily.This indicates that there is better tearing along the oblique direction.

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