Textile concepts and classifications commonly used

1 Common Concepts

1. Warp direction, warp yarn, warp density -- direction of fabric length;The side yarns are called warp yarns;The number of threads arranged within 1 inch is warp density;

2. Weft direction, weft and weft density -- direction of fabric width;The yarn is called the weft and the number of threads within an inch is the weft density.

3. Density -- It is used to represent the number of yarns per unit length of shuttle fabric, generally the number of yarns within 1 inch or 10 centimeters. China's national standards stipulate that the number of yarns within 10 centimeters is used to represent the density, but textile enterprises still use the number of yarns within 1 inch to represent the density.For example, the commonly seen "45×45/108×58" means 45 weft and warp yarns with a density of 108 and 58 respectively.

4. Width -- the effective width of fabric is usually expressed in inches or centimeters. Common fabrics are 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches and so on.The width is generally marked behind the density. For example, if the fabric mentioned in: 3 is added with the width, it will be expressed as "45×45/108×58/60" ", i.e. the width is 60 inches.

5. Gram weight -- the gram weight of the fabric is generally the grams of the fabric weight in square meters. The gram weight is an important technical index of knitted fabrics.The gram weight of denim is generally expressed as "OZ", that is, the number of ounces of fabric weight per square yard, such as 7 ounces, 12 ounces of denim, etc.

Yarn-dyed -- known as "dyed fabric" in Japan, refers to the first yarn or filament after dyeing, and then the use of colored yarn for weaving the process method, this fabric is called "yarn-dyed fabric", the production of yarn-dyed fabric factory is generally called yarn-dyed fabric factory, such as denim, and most shirt fabrics are yarn-dyed fabric;

2. Classification of textiles

1. Classification according to different processing methods

(1) Woven fabric: Woven fabric, which consists of two systems of yarns that are arranged vertically to each other, i.e., transverse and longitudinal yarns, which are interwoven on the loom according to certain rules.There are denim, brocade, board, linen and so on.: There are many ways to classify woven fabrics.

(A) Pure textiles, blends and interweaves, according to the type of fibre constituting the woven fabric.

Pure textile - a fabric made of the same kind of pure yarn, woven by warp and weft. The properties of this fabric mainly reflect the characteristics of fibers.For example, the warp and weft yarns of pure cotton fabrics are all cotton yarns (threads), such as pure cotton khaki 21×21/108×58, and the warp and weft yarns of viscose fiber fabrics are all viscose fiber yarns.

Blended fabric -- a fabric made of two or more different types of fiber yarns, such as cotton/linen blend, poly-cotton blend, wool-polyester blend, etc., characterized by the blending of fibers during spinning (usually in the "open clearing process" at the beginning of spinning).

Interwoven fabric -- a fabric made of yarns or filaments of different fibers in the warp and weft directions, such as polyamide filament in the warp direction, brocade and viscose interwoven fabric in the weft direction, silk and wool in the warp direction, etc.

(B) Classified into cotton, medium length, wool and filament fabrics according to the length and fineness of the fibres constituting the woven fabric.

Cotton type fabric -- the length of the cotton fiber is about 30 mm, and the yarn of the fiber at this length is a cotton type yarn (in order to blend with the cotton fiber, the chemical fiber has to be cut into this length -- a cotton type chemical fiber), and the fabric made of this kind of yarn is a cotton type fabric.

Wool fabric - the length of wool is about 75 mm (there is a big difference between different varieties). The yarn made of the fibers at this length is wool yarn.Medium length fabrics - fibers between the cotton and wool lengths are called medium length fibers and yarns are called medium length yarns.

Filament fabrics - Fabrics woven with filament, such as rayon fabric, polyester fabric.

(C) The woven fabric is divided into plain, twill, satin and other textures according to the texture of the woven fabric.The concept of fabric texture has been discussed before and will not be repeated here.

(D) According to the purpose for which woven fabrics are composed, they are divided into clothing, home textiles, industrial fabrics, etc.

(2) Knitted fabrics: fabrics made of yarns woven into loops, divided into weft and warp knitting.

A. Weft knitting is made by feeding the weft from the direction of the weft into the working needle of the knitting machine so that the yarns are sequentially bent into circles and interlaced.

B. Warp knitting is made of one or more parallel yarns, which are fed into all the working needles of the knitting machine in the warp direction at the same time.

Knitted fabrics are divided into two categories: weft knitted fabrics and warp knitted fabrics.Weft knitted fabrics are used for sweaters and socks. Warp knitted fabrics are often used as underwear. Manual knitting is also a knitting method.

In weft knitting, yarns reciprocate horizontally from one side of the machine to the other (or in a circular motion) in conjunction with needle movements to form new knitting coils.The yarn of a weft knitted fabric travels in a horizontal direction. The fabric is formed by the knitting of a horizontal row of interlocking coils.All the coils in a row are woven from a single yarn.Weft knitting can be done on flat or circular machines.

Warp knitting is the longitudinal movement of a group of warp yarns upwards to form new knitting coils.Warp knitting and the warp knitting machine that produces them are essentially different from weft knitting and the weft knitting machine that produces weft knitting.In warp knitting, yarns are warp knitted, as in woven fabrics, and are fed by a warp shaft, which is wound with a large number of parallel yarns, similar to the warp shaft in weaving.The direction of the yarn in warp knitted fabric is warp.Form a vertical coil in one column, then move diagonally to another row and form another coil in the next column.Yarns move from side to side in a zigzag pattern of length in the fabric. Each coil in a horizontal row is woven from a different yarn.Weft knitting should take the largest proportion in knitwear.

Weft knitted fabrics mainly include basic weft knitted fabrics (plain knitted fabrics, rib knitted fabrics, double reverse knitted fabrics), special weft knitted fabrics (double rib knitted fabrics, double side knitted fabrics, plush, knitted loop, knitted velvet, etc.). Warp knitted fabrics mainly include warp knitting, warp knitting and warp knitting.

(3) Nonwovens: Loosely bonded or stitched fibers.At present, two methods of adhesion and puncture are mainly used.This processing method can greatly simplify the process, reduce the cost, improve labor productivity, and has a broad development prospect.

2. According to the yarn materials of the fabric

(1) Pure textile: the raw materials of the fabric are all made of the same kind of fiber, including cotton fabric, wool fabric, silk fabric, polyester fabric, etc.

(2) Blended fabric: the raw materials of the fabric are made of two or more different kinds of fibers and blended into yarn, including polyester viscidity, polyester nitrile, polyester cotton and other blended fabrics.

(3) Mixed fabric: the raw materials of the fabric are made of single yarns of two kinds of fibers, which are combined to form strands, including low-elastic polyester filament yarn and medium-length filament yarn, and polyester staple fiber and low-elastic polyester filament yarn.

(4) Interwoven fabrics: The raw materials for the two directions of the fabric system are respectively made of different fiber yarns, such as ancient satin interwoven with silk and rayon, and Nifu interwoven with nylon and rayon.

3. Classification according to whether the fabric material is dyed or not

(1) White fabric: it is made from raw materials that have not been bleached. In silk, it is also called raw fabric.

(2) Colored fabric: the dyed raw material or fancy thread is processed into fabric. Silk is also known as cooked fabric.

4. Classification of novel fabrics

(1), adhesive cloth: by two pieces of cloth * back each other by bonding.The cloth of agglutinate organic fabric, knit fabric, nonwoven fabric, vinyl plastic film, etc., still can undertake them different combination.

(2) Flocking processing cloth: the cloth is covered with short and dense fiber nap, with velvet style, which can be used as clothing and decorative materials.

(3) Foamed plastic laminated fabric: the foamed plastic is adhered to the woven fabric or knitted fabric as the base cloth, mostly used as the cold-proof clothing material.

(4) Coated fabric: coated with polyvinyl chloride (PVC), neoprene, etc. on the woven fabric or knitted fabric, with superior waterproof function.

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