Fiber properties testing machine : Stiffness refers to the flexural stiffness and softness of the fabric.Flexural stiffness refers to the ability of the fabric to resist its bending deformation. Flexural stiffness is also often used to evaluate the opposite characteristics -- softness, stiffness and flexibility of the fabric directly affect the shape and fit of the garment. Generally, underwear is required to have a good softness, so that the wearer is comfortable, while outerwear is required to have a certain stiffness, so that the shape is crisp and visible.There are many factors influencing the stiffness and flexibility of the fabric, such as the bending property of the fiber, the structure of the yarn, and the fabric structure and finishing.Drape refers to the characteristics of fabric droop due to its self-weight, including drape degree and drape shape.Drape of fabric has important function and meaning to dress, especially skirt.Drape good fabric made into clothing can show smooth, even contour curved surface, give a person with smooth lines beautiful shape feeling.The drape of the fabric has much to do with the stiffness, flexibility and weight of the fabric.Generally, the fabric with large bending stiffness has poor drape.Fabrics with large linear density and weight also have poor drape.

1. Fiber properties:

The initial modulus of a fiber is an important factor in determining its bending properties.Generally, the lower the initial modulus, the softer the fiber, and the more suitable the fabric for close-fitting.In natural fiber, wool has low initial modulus and soft feel.The initial modulus of hemp is high and the handle is hard.The initial modulus of cotton and silk lies between the two, so it feels moderately soft.In chemical fiber, except nylon, the initial modulus is smaller, feel soft, other fibers are higher initial modulus, so feel more rigid.

2. Fabric properties:

Fiber stiffness and flexibility are consistent with the concept of fabric stiffness and flexibility in practical use, which is why cotton and silk fabrics are often used for dry underwear and garments that show the curvy body, while linen and polyester fabrics are suitable for outer fabrics.In addition, the stiffness and flexibility of the fabric also depend on the number of weave points, yarn thickness and twist size and other factors, such as the feel of sanyuan fabric, plain weave is the hardest, twill second, satin is the softest, and knitted fabric because of the use of yarn twist is small, so it seems softer than woven fabric.

3. Detection method:

The national standard specifies two methods for evaluating the stiffness and flexibility of fabrics: the inclined surface method and the heart-shaped method.The bevel method is the simplest method for evaluating the stiffness of heavy fabrics.Bending length, bending stiffness and flexural modulus are used, the larger the value, the stiffer the fabric: the heart-shaped method is used to evaluate the softness of thin and crimped fabrics, and the drape height is used as the test index, the larger the value, the softer the fabric.For the test of fabric drape, umbrella suspension method is commonly used. The test principle is to place a certain area of circular fabric sample on several disks with small diameter. The fabric folds evenly around the small disks according to its own weight.The area difference between the product and the small disk according to the projection of the fabric sample.The drape coefficient is calculated by the ratio of the plugging area to the sample.The national standard adopts the drape tester that USES photoelectric principle to read directly, the smaller the drape coefficient is, the better the drape of the fabric is.

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