In modern society, many garment enterprises are processing and producing color-matching garments. In terms of design, they tend to choose fabrics with different sizes and colors for stitching, and the specific stitching is usually carried out in a certain way.Be in choose to match color fabrics respect to should be apt to choose same kind of cloth, perhaps choose the cloth with close shrinkage rate, fabrics amount is 2 reach above more.But from the development trend in recent years, more and more designers have begun to pursue innovation in style, many people have tried to use color-matching fabrics, even consider the large body parts of the garment horizontal clip on the thread weave piece, in order to highlight the clothing unique design.In the choice spells lubricious place respect, from the outside of the sleeve mouth that begin most, collar and trousers, transition gradually arrives at the level that all parts can spell lubricious at present.At the same time, spell the area of lubricious also more and more unrestricted, compare traditional all the position such as the place that is in garment inlay, cuff of small area and collar and pocket edge, already developed to the method of large area spell lubricious at present, the fabrics that a few stylist are trying to use a few kinds of area are same, color has difference undertakes putting together.Among them, the color collocation that spells lubricious fabrics needs to pass long-term fumble, stylist people are used to use the collocation principle of adjacent color or comparative color.Here "adjacent color" refers to the color within a certain range on the color ring (generally 120 ~ 180 degrees), "contrast color" refers to the two opposite colors on the color ring (generally 180 degrees at both ends).For example, yellow and green, red and orange are adjacent colors, while yellow and purple, red and green are contrasting colors.At this stage, some designers are trying to use shun color to finish the stitching, even if only using the same color fabric, but the color concentration also presents a sense of hierarchy.

Analysis on the control measures of color fastness of color-matching clothing

Color matching problems and their reasons

The problem that spells color garment to appear to touch color phenomenon is more common, appear extremely easily after catharsis is dry normally.The so-called colouring phenomenon is that the light-colored fabric or white fabric sticks to the dye in the dark fabric, thus affecting the overall aesthetic feeling of clothing.The principle to solve the problem of color staining lies in the dyeing mechanism of the fiber itself: it is easy for pure cotton clothes to be stained, while it is less for pure polyester clothes to be stained.To further explore this phenomenon.The reason is: cotton fiber above the part of the group and dye, or between the molecules.Cotton fiber in the humid environment will occur a violent swelling, fiber gap will increase, dye molecules will permeate through these gaps into the cotton fiber.Of course, this process is reversible in conventional washing, so pure cotton deep light color fabric color sewing clothing is the most easy to appear light color phenomenon;The dyeing process of polyester color-matching clothing is based on the violent movement of the fiber molecular chain under the condition of high temperature (over 100) and high pressure, which causes the gap between the fiber molecules to expand instantly and the dye molecules can penetrate.After dyeing, the dye solution will gradually cool down until the temperature drops below the vitrification temperature of polyester. At this time, the dye molecules will solidify in the solid fiber. Generally, the dye molecules will not be dissolved by conventional washing method.If, on the other hand, the rationality of the analysis of fabric dyeing process and operation, like jumping to conclusions: residual dye fabrics under the effect of washing liquid, the part is usually white or light color dye absorption, the cause of color with this phenomenon is likely to be dye adsorption on the fabric, diffusion, improper control of fixation and cleaning, etc.From the current fashion design process, designers are accustomed to paying attention to the final color effect of the clothing, that is, "appearance", and almost do not consider whether these color-matching clothes will be stained after washing.

1. The requirements for color fastness of raw materials and clothing are contradictory

For the assessment of the color fastness of clothing, the country and the clothing industry have given certain standards, but the limits of these indicators often only focus on the color fastness of monochrome clothing, ignoring the assessment of the color fastness of clothing.There is such a case: according to relevant media reports, consumers have complained about the purchase of color-matching clothing appear stained phenomenon.The dress is a patchwork floral skirt made of light brown cotton, light brown floral prints in two different designs and a brown petticoat.This consumer used soap solution to clean the fabric before wearing it. He found that the same fabric was of coffee color, and the thick part touched the shallow part and formed a massive dirty spot, which was not only difficult to clean but also seriously affected the beauty of wearing.According to (I) FZ/ t81004-2003 standard color fastness item test- Electronic Crockmeter D004, the color fastness of the underskirt should be greater than grade 3, but the color fastness of the underskirt fabric in the above example has been tested to meet the requirements of FZ/ t81004-2003 and (III) GB18401B, so the manufacturer does not accept the consumer's complaint.

2.Pocket cloth control requirements

No matter in the country or the clothing industry, there is no specific requirement on the color fastness of the garment pocket cloth in the assessment of color fastness, nor does it mention how to choose the bag cloth. Therefore, some clothing companies try to exploit loopholes in the production and design process.In one case, a customer complained about a jacket he had bought, which was made of beige cotton and feather lining. As the whole jacket was of light color, there was nothing wrong with the appearance, but on closer inspection, the two pockets were obviously stained with black stains.The customer turned the jacket's pockets inside out and discovered that the fabric was made of pure cotton, black cotton, a mix that was hard to spot on the outside and impossible to predict when washed.At the same time, the clothing and for the logo on the warning "do not wash", from (II) of FZ/T81008-2011 for jacket clothing color fastness testing standards, touch every grade a wash fastness of fabric should be no less than level 3, in the part of washable with colored fastness should exceed the level 3, but concrete is adopted in the fabric, material to make the pocket cloth or other material, are not clearly defined, accordingly, also does not have to touch color fastness to washing.As a result, in order to save material consumption in the processing process, many manufacturers will adopt the method of using the overstocked fabric in concealed parts of clothing, such as pockets.For costumes in the above example, however, if only in accordance with the jacket clothing of FZ/T81008-2011 standards for testing, due to the only standard with fabrics and is expected to wash in the fastness is not less than every level 3, and the clothing material and fabric are adopted in the shallow cream-colored, so there is no wash with colored fastness is lower than the problem of level 3, so the visual quality is no problem.It can be seen that there are many defects in the assessment of color fastness fashion of patchwork clothing, and it is difficult to fully reflect its quality.

3. Swimming movement of color-matching clothing

There will also be "swimming movement" in the color-matching clothing. One case described that a foreign trade manufacturer had a batch of women's jackets that were supposed to be used for export, but they were returned.The main color of the clothes is white, with a 3cm red clip at the front and back of the body, and a black roll inside.The whole batch of clothes are made of polyester fabric, which should not be stained with color by this color matching method. However, due to some formalities problems with this batch of goods, they were detained in the dock for nearly a month.During this period, not only was it summer, but the container was also leaking water to varying degrees. Therefore, a month had passed since the delivery of this batch of goods to the customer. Some of the white fabrics of the clothes inside were stained with red and black marks.Now reviewing this example can be found this batch of dresses with polyester fiber this kind of "safe" fabric, but due to environmental changes, high temperature sealing and container ooze water, cause the entire box internal temperature can exceed 100, this fabric is mutually overlying deposit, occurred between different color dye migration phenomenon, cause the contaminated clothing.In other words, if you join the manufacturer and place the insulating paper between each piece of clothing when packaging, you can avoid swimming.

How to avoid the phenomenon of color

Combined with the above cases and experimental scientific analysis, the following conclusion can be drawn: the color fastness of the dark cloth in the dark color combination clothing should meet the requirements of color fastness and color fastness are greater than or equal to four levels, then there will be no color staining phenomenon.If you pay attention to the appearance of clothing, it is suggested to grasp the practical principles when designing clothing, firmly and strictly control the color fastness of color-matching fabrics, improve the quality of clothing.At the same time, it is also necessary to improve the assessment standard of color fastness of clothing, and set special requirements for the color-matching clothing and color-matching parts to ensure that they meet the requirements.Finally, when soaking the color-matching clothing for a long time or improper storage, improper washing or even improper drying, it is likely to cause fabric discoloration or staining, so it is recommended that consumers follow the requirements of washing and storage, so as to reduce the possibility of color or swimming phenomenon of color-matching clothing.

conclusion

In order to avoid discoloration, staining or swimming phenomenon, it is necessary to master the color fastness change rules of different fabrics, fully consider in the design process, and advocate consumers to wash and store with correct methods, so as to maximize the control of color fastness change.

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